Includes a little jig off the side to bend the leads regularly, and holds the LEDs in consistent orientation using the cathode cutaway on the rim.

Designed by my lovely wife.

btw It is food safe to drink coffee next to 3d printed parts nerds ;)

P.S. this filament is awful, filamentium pla. The worst thing I’ve used since early reprap days when variability was high.

Any ideas what’s causing that “shadowing” between the holes? those parts printed last I think but at the same speed/ironing pattern etc as the more matte parts between.

  • moody@lemmings.world
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    10 months ago

    The “shadowing” is due to how it fills in the layers. The darker parts are done after the lighter parts, because it can’t fill it all in one continuous line. Without the holes, it would just do one continuous line and it would look more even.

    • naevaTheRat@lemmy.dbzer0.comOP
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      10 months ago

      Obvs but why the different finish? It should be the same temp and feed rate. It’s weirding me out and I don’t have the ability to image the surface to see the specific difference.

      • faebudo@infosec.pub
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        10 months ago

        Lower speed between the holes because of low acceleration. Because of this more heat is brought into the layer which makes it more shiny. Your nozzle doesn’t reach the same speed on a 20mm line as it does on a 200mm line.

        • naevaTheRat@lemmy.dbzer0.comOP
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          10 months ago

          Nah it’s moving at the same speed, you don’t see that finish at the edges of the non hole bits where it slowed to turn around.

          Has to be a different cause.

      • rambos@lemm.ee
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        10 months ago

        You can try monotonic order for top/bottom. Not sure how it works with this many holes, but it usually works amazing for flat surface

        • rambos@lemm.ee
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          10 months ago

          To answer your question, imagine painting wall where you skip some parts and come back later. You can use the same speed and amount of paint, but the lines will be visible