Fundamentals of Instruction.

That would require a number of teachers that actually understand or care about FoI which we don’t have.

I honestly feel safer dadoing on a table saw than on a router table, for a couple reasons.

I have a Ryzen 7700X, a Radeon 7900GRE and 32GB of DDR5. I’m gaming at 1440p in Unreal 5 games at reasonable framerates.

It’s getting to the point that…I think I have enough. I don’t think I’ll ever see another jump in capability like I used to. I remember when the N64 could do things the SNES couldn’t. By the PS3 era, things were basically good enough. What else is there to want out of a gaming PC?

The answer they give you is “If you want it written, YOU write it.” Which…it’s no wonder open source software doesn’t hold up, right? It’s made by idiots who think it’s up to end users to write the manual.

I don’t think there’s an exact science. I tend to take the first couple from the base of the plant, I also take off the first flower cluster. I want the plant to put its energy into growing big early in the season, not worth a couple early tomatoes. From there I pretty much let it grow.

Tomatoes are weird little dudes. Especially indeterminates. But, with a sunny spot in the back yard and some cages you can do a lot better than the grocery store can.

Are there any actual Tarheels in any office in the state?

I haven’t used it in awhile, but OnShape I think had the best UI, for being in a browser.

There are some macros out there I’ve found that make FreeCAD a lot better. I kinda wish they had a half-decent reference for macro writing; they’ll point you to their unfinished out of date wiki if you ask.

In my area they will. My vines tend to die in December. Maybe’ I’d have gotten more tomatoes if I’d have bought more plants last month? But our bean crop fell through so I had some trellis space for some extra maters.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bPwY-FTqWxM

Oh great, .ml and hexbear are getting mroe members.

On FTL: I want that game’s primary loop, but in a Fallout-style role playing game. Have a universe you’re free to move around in. Rather than a single person gaining stats and abilities or whatever, you install equipment and hire crew. Kinda similar to the existing game, where having a leveled up medbay allows for certain actions. But make it one longer game you can sink your teeth into rather than a roguelike.

I gave up on the final boss of Minish Cap. I was playing the game on the Wii U.

Idiocrat

That blade guard almost certainly mounts to a splitter, which does pretty much the same job as a riving knife. The technical difference is a splitter is mounted to the table, a riving knife is mounted to the motor/blade assembly. Those serrated tails are called anti-kickback pawls, they are indeed meant to arrest a board (sheet, really) during a kickback by digging into the stock by digging into it.

So, the guy who invented the saw brake went around trying to sell that technology to other manufacturers. None wanted it because they didn’t want to sell a safety feature on premium saws as it would make the lower range look unsafe. So he started his own tool company. Bosch built a different system that achieved the same result, and got sued.

Modern routers scare me even more. They have things like soft start and such. I’ve got this little Craftsman cordless palm router, bout it at Lowe’s, it’s got plenty of power for a trim router, it cuts fine, it’s got soft start and it runs quiet when the bit isn’t cutting. It’s terrifyingly friendly. I’m scared someone out there isn’t going to pay it the respect it deserves because of how gentlemanly and courteous it is and end up spraying phalanges across the shop.

That’s what we call a good start. You may want to make one or two of various designs. The push stick that comes with a lot of table saws tend to have small bird’s mouths, you can get or make some that are much longer and better for holding stock down, or flat paddles useful for certain ripping operations. I mentioned it in my dissertation but a featherboard is also a good tool for work guiding.

Well there’s lots of reasons why you might.

On my table saw, you have to remove the riving knife to install the blade guard and splitter. They plug into the same port.

You can get wide and narrow riving knives for my table saw to match wide or narrow blades.

On my table saw, the biggest reason I remove my riving knife and run it without is for dadoing. A standard saw blade is 10 inches in diameter, a dado stack is 8 inches in diameter. The riving knife is too tall. On my saw it has to come out for dado use, on others it retracts. It’s not hard to forget to reinstall/extend it.

Sometimes you’ll use a table saw with jigs or fixtures that would interfere with the riving knife, so you remove it. In those

You’ll also see folks remove it for use with a zero clearance insert. There’s a large hole in the table top that the blade comes out, it has to be fairly large so you can change the blade. Most of it is filled with a removable plate called the throat plate or table insert. PLastic or metal ones have fairly large gaps around the blade which can present a problem, thin offcuts might fall in there. So folks will make them out of wood, and simply raise the blade through it with the table saw running to cut the slot for the blade. Well the riving knife won’t cut its own hole. So you either have to do that some other way or do without.

Oh, it’s worth mentioning: Riving knives have only been required equipment on new table saws since 2003, in the US at least. A lot of table saws out there don’t have the provision to install one.