-
pay off high interest debt
-
top off your emergency fund so you don’t run into expensive short-on-money situations
-
take care of deferred maintenance on your car or house that might turn into an expensive repair
-
If you have an employer sponsored 401k, increase the contribution amount to get 10k more tax free into it before the end of the year and use the $10k cash in hand for expenses.
-
Open a roth IRA and contribute the maximum amount you can (which may vary based on your income)
VT, VTI, and SPY are good broad-market funds with good historical growth.
I like these points. Preventing a future expense by paying less now is always worth it, if you can afford it.
Being poor is expensive.
It’s much more expensive to be poor now than it used to be!
That depends, how far in the future, how big of an expense, how much interest can you earn, and what’s inflation looking like?
If it’s more than a couple thousand dollars more than a couple years out, you could possibly make useful money with a high interest bearing account provided inflation is expected to be less than about 2/3 of the interest rate of the account.
Time IS money.
This might make sense for people with six+ figures sitting in a savings account, but the average person today doesn’t have enough cash to think about earning interest on it. For them, paying off a debt now would be cheaper in the long run. For the most part, at least.
Second vote for VTI.
1-4 are all taken care of. I need to learn more about a roth IRA and what an index fund is. I’m okay with letting $10K sit somewhere for 5-10 years, possibly longer like for retirement.
Don’t rule out a Roth if you only want to save for 5-10 years. You’re allowed to withdraw the principal (initial 10K) at any time for no penalty/cost, so long as it’s recorded properly with the IRS when you withdraw it.
Read up on Roth IRAs - your future self will thank you! You can open an account anywhere you’d like (Vanguard, Fidelity, Charles Schwab, etc). One thing I’ll mention though: the annual limit is 7K for 2024 (8K if you’re 50+), and you have to have at least that much in income to contribute (i.e., if you only had 5K income for 2024, then that’s your limit).
So, for 10K you’ll have to invest in 2024 and 2025. You also have until tax day to make contributions for the prior year.
I used to not have any doubts about a Roth, but I’ve been considering that maybe it’s a little too much like giving the government a free loan. Do you know if there’s a thorough comparison anywhere between a traditional and Roth IRA that takes into consideration the opportunity cost of paying tax on the contributions?
Compound interest will far outweigh paying taxes now for a Roth. Especially if you also have a 401k, the taxes in retirement will be potentially large based on the growth of the fund over decades. A Roth makes it so you pay nominal taxes now for potential large tax free growth later.
The exception would be if you think your income will decrease in your later working years, in which case a traditional IRA could make more sense. That however is a unique case. Generally it’s better to take advantage of a Roth if you can for tax free gains later.
I understand how having a higher income and tax rate in retirement makes a Roth attractive. However, the comparisons I’ve seen don’t fully account for the opportunity cost of paying the taxes up front in the case of a Roth, since a traditional IRA lowers your taxable income by the amount you contribute. This tax break allows for a greater contribution. In other words, I think a fairer comparison would show a greater initial contribution for a traditional IRA.
The biggest question is, do you think your tax percentage will be higher now, or higher in the future? If you think your income might increase later (placing you in a higher tax bracket), or that the government might increase your tax burden later, then it’s better to pay taxes now.
That is a helpful comparison, but it assumes the same initial contribution. I think a better comparison would assume a higher initial contribution with a traditional IRA in order to account for the money being paid in taxes with Roth as being a missed opportunity. The money that went to taxes in the case of a Roth could have been additional investment in the the case of a traditional.
But you will pay taxes on the growth of the account later. Whereas a Roth grows tax free.
Ultimately it depends on what you think you will make in retirement. Both traditional and Roth IRAs are tax advantaged accounts, it just depends on when you want to pay the tax. It also depends on what kind of investments you are doing in those accounts. For something like the S&P 500, you can expect it to grow so a Roth is more tax advantaged than a traditional. However, we also aren’t talking about huge investments either l, so do your own research and see what you want to do.
If you qualify for the savers credit you should put $2k into retirement like a an IRA.
-
If you don’t have an emergency fund, I would put some or all of it into something like a money market account. It won’t grow very much, but it’s safe and is quick and easy to withdraw when needed.
Otherwise depends on your age and situation, but an index fund (S&P 500) is almost always the right choice. It’s flexible, doesn’t usually lock you in, and will generally do very well in the mid-to-long term. If we hit a recession you might get stuck holding the shares for several months to a few years. The last thing you want to do is panic sell in that situation.
If you have any debt, paying that down is a very smart move, especially if the debt is charging more interest than your investment can earn. Future you will thank you.
Index fund, most definitely. And find one that has low administrative fees, I know that Vanguard has at least a few that are super low.
I have my emergency fund, and no debt. If I were to lose this $10K, it wouldn’t impact my life. I’m comfortable with taking $10K out of my bank account and doing something with it but I don’t know how to go about that. I don’t know how to open an index fund or money market account.
I’m going to second (third, fourth, fifth) the Roth IRA recommendation. You can set it up with Schwab or whoever and can make recurring contributions too (set it and forget it) there are income limits so if you are really raking it in one year you can’t contribute that year but whatever you put in there is still (usually) going to grow in value. If you have an emergency situation and need the money you can withdraw contributions, not earnings, ahead of retirement, so it’s not lost to you, but working for you and much easier at tax time, no worries about how to report it.
Pay down your debts first.
Buy 10 Babies in Arkansas.
it’s cheaper than surrogacy.
Does beer come with that?
With zero information on your situation, it’s difficult to say. If you have debt, paying that down/off is generally priority one. If you are debt-free, then you have options. Your age, stability, goals, and other factors would generally dictate what type of action to take. Were it me (early 40s, very low interest rate home loan), I’d put it into an index fund where I’ve already got some investments. In my case, I’m investing for retirement in about 25-30 years (as if I’ll be able to do that, but one can hope).
Bees.
Beads?
Peas.
I do enjoy beekeeping vlogs but I’m more of a gardener.
Beads?
An index that either tracks the top 500 companies or the total market. Look up a 3-fund portfolio if you want to go a little deeper.
Alternatively, max out an IRA if you haven’t already this year and are in a position where you won’t need that money until retirement.
Edit: I realized I’m assuming a lot about your situation. So instead, here’s a general list of priorities that applies to more or less any situation. You should only proceed with a step if all the steps above it are achieved. Also keep in mind, I’m not a financial advisor just a random stranger on the internet sharing my personal financial strategy.
-
Pay your future-self first. Establish regular contributions to your retirement account and HSA if you have one, totalling between 3-5% of your compensation or whatever your company’s matching policy is (That’s not free money, it’s part of your compensation package. Not claiming it is like waving a portion of your income).
-
Pay off all debt since interest is essentially paying a percentage-based monthly fee for owing money and we’re not privileged enough for our assets to cover that expense.
-
Build and maintain a liquid (cash) holding as an emergency fund. This isn’t for investing or expensive new toys, it’s insurance that will cover your expenses for 6-12 months. Put it in a high-yield savings account or money market since it will be a significant sum and inflation will otherwise reduce its value over time.
-
Max out your retirement accounts to the contribution limit, your 401(k), IRA, and HSA if you have one. These accounts have tax advantages that essentially mean you can put more money towards retirement than you could in an individual trading account. This doesn’t have to be one lump sum, you can divide it up into monthly contributions so long as you’re on track for maxing your contribution limits by the end of the year.
-
Open an individual trading account with a broker (Vanguard, Fidelity, etc.) and invest in index funds (3-fund portfolios are reliable and low-cost). If you anticipate a significant expense over the next 10 years, i.e. a down payment for a house you can budget between this and the funds going towards Step 4 but keep in mind the tax advantages of retirement accounts means you’re likely missing out on some retirement gains.
-
VT. Don’t gamble on single stocks. But since capitalism rules and all of congress owns stocks, you can be fairly confident the market will go up in the long term 10+ years horizon. And compound interest does miracles.
Leave the country while you still can? 🤓🤘🏽
I kind of agree, moving from USA to for example Switzerland would be an improvement in every aspect of life.
But that might not be what they want.
It’s a big undertaking; learning the language and law, changing jobs, being okay with the fact you’ll rarely if ever see your family and friends…
The biggest problem for some people is no country wants them.
America seems to take just about anyone given you wait decades, but every other country worth moving to has strict income or professional requirements. I’m just a worthless factory schmuck so I’m stuck here :(
Or that, yes.
Even if you suddenly cash out a lucky 10 000 USD once, a lot of countries’ income requirements still filter you outGoing about it that way is like brute forcing a password. There are myriad other solutions, and necessity is the mother of invention.
I’m not sure what you mean by that, so just to clarify what I meant: A lot of countries require you to prove you have a sustainable income, so showing them you’ve earned 2500-3000 EUR every month for the past three years, and that you already have a contract waiting for you in their country, works. Showing you received 10 000 USD once when you can’t prove a sustainable income won’t do.
This makes it hard for people to move just because they got lucky with money once.I’m not saying it’s a good thing or not, just that this is the case.
Yes, this is known.
Venmo me
But how do we know that you are use it for drugs and hookers and not just some nonsense?
Damn you got me I was gonna be an idiot and put it in an IRA
yeah that’s not good, may get you prosecuted under “material support” laws
Vanguard S&P 500 fund.
This. Alternatively, 401K depending on a variety of factors.
Put it in an IRA so you cant touch it and buy high dividedend yeilding stocks that reinvest in more shares and let it sit for the next decade and pray that there is a radical social change in out society so we can save the Planet and Poor from Billionaires.
You can definitely touch an IRA. Had to empty mine since I’ve been unemployed.
What kind of work are you looking for?
I’m a software engineer but can’t even get a call back due to the fact that tons of us are unemployed right now. Many unemployed have more experience than I do.
The best part is that I can’t even get a job at a grocery store because I’m “overqualified” according to one store in my neighborhood.
Have you looked into drafting before?
I’m not sure what that means
Depends on your risk tolerance.
A 4% savings account is “safe” but might not keep up with inflation.
An index fund might be “good”, but the value can go down.
IIRC, >6% is the floor to keep up…
The average inflation rate for the last 20 years is under 3%
Edit: why are people downvoting me, refute my statement with a source instead of downvoting because you wish inflation was higher
Oh? That’s actually uplifting news! 😅🖖🏽
There is no universally good investment - it all depends on your priorities, risk appetite and timeframe.
I’ll reply without knowing your situation fully. If you don’t have an emergency fund that would cover several months worth of expenses that is probably the single most impactful thing you can do with $10k. A few high yield savings account offer rates around 4%, some of them have strings attached, so read how it works carefully. Think of this as insurance against unforseen expenses that you might otherwise have to put on a card and consequently pay interest for. Pick a number and always make sure you keep that account at that number.
If you already have an emergency fund, you have lots of options. Personally, I am onboard with the folks recommending index funds. I have an ETF that tracks the DOW and it has outperformed most of my individual stocks significantly over time.
Most importantly, strangers on the internet are likely not financial advisors and may not even know what they are doing. Take everything with a grain of salt and if you talk to any investment companies make sure you understand the difference and overlap between a financial advisor and a fiduciary.
